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Soul Curry

Soul Curry

Author: Ruben Banerjee
Publication: India Today
Date: February 24, 2003

Introduction: Temples are the answer to those hungering for supper and solace

It is a routine that seldom fails. As day breaks, you see the figure of Sanjay Senapati making his way to the Kali temple near the CRPF Square in Bhubaneswar. On the way to his office, he again makes a visit to the temple. There is one more circumambulation at dusk. He says this gives him an immense sense of peace. Prayer is food for the soul indeed, but there's food for the body too.

The subsidised food at the temple has become a big draw in the city. Like Senapati, the 50-something government clerk, there are many who drop in at the temple to enjoy the delicious vegetarian fare: for Rs 17, you get a full meal of rice, dal, a curry and sweet. Senapati admits the temple is no longer simply a place of worship for him. "It is my favourite eatery in town too," he smiles.

The Kali temple is not the only one that doubles up as a restaurant in Orissa's capital. There are more than two dozen temples-big and small-that house eateries in the city. These include the ancient temples of Lingaraj and Ananta Basudeva in the old sections of Bhubaneswar as well as the modern Sri Sri Ma Dakhin Kali Khai temple in Baramunda on the city's outskirts and the Sri Sri Sanishara Mandir in upmarket Saheed Nagar, where there are special dining halls with fancy names. The trend has caught on in the adjoining city of Cuttack too- several temples at Chandni Chowk, Raja Bagicha and Dolomundai are following suit. Still the repositories of the region's heritage, the temple are also standing testimony to the changing times.

There is a reason behind the change-the promise of piety along with the prasad- meals make sound economic sense. It has helped the shrines lift their otherwise sagging revenue. The idea of nourishing the body along with the soul was first conceived by ISKCON. It went commercial, opening an in-house eatery to boost its income. That became an immediate success. Today, ISKCON's famed restaurant Govinda attracts nearly 1,000 people a day and helps the organisation make a profit of about Rs 30,000 a month. The story is the same at the other temples, although the profits are not so grand. At the Sani temple, for instance, the monthly expenditure of Rs 5,000 are entirely met by the earnings generated by its restaurant. Even the priests, who were till now surviving on the meagre income from the temples, have begun to depend on the restaurants for a better livelihood.

With so much at stake, there is a shift in focus too-from the purely spiritual to the tantalisingly temporal. It cannot be helped as the competition is getting stiffer. To draw the boarders at the nearby Utkal University hostel, the Sanishara temple offers students a discount of Re 1 a plate. The others are not to be left behind. To lure the hungry, the Giri Durga temple at Unit Three locality is advertising its fare in cinemas. Some are going the whole hog by diversifying into outdoor catering, taking advance bulk orders and ensuring timely delivery.

The prayers for profits seem to have answered. Even without such marketing tactics and publicity efforts, the trend has found wide acceptance and the city has shown it has a tremendous appetite. Says Santanu Satapathy, an Utkal University boarder who comes calling at the Sani temple for his daily meal: "The food is clean and cheap. The meals are mouthfuls of divinity."

Ilapati Das, a devotee at ISKCON, agrees with the student: "We are definitely better than the private restaurants. Unlike others which only fill up the belly, the temple meals also purify one's heart." It is this underlining concept of "sanctity" that gives temple restaurants the edge over the regular restaurants and dhabas.

There is a fly in the soup, however. There are cases where temples have been built on encroached land. Restaurants have been opened here in a bid to get popular support for getting these structures regularised. The local people do not create a brouhaha since the piping hot "divine" meals are convenient and come at reasonable prices. The gods too, they presume, would be delighted at the number of people-believers and non-believers alike-who throng the temples. Given the circumstances, the temple authorities hope the municipal corporation will not want to spoil their party. The best way to a man's heart is through his stomach-no one wants to believe in this adage more firmly than the temple authorities. It is working. At least for now.
 


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